The magnificent Dior retrospective at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 2017
MUSEUMS À LA MODE
FASHION WEEK IS EVERY WEEK IN THE CITY OF STYLE
Paris Fashion Week may be over, but Paris never quits her full-time role as Fashion Capital of the Universe. There are five museums that I highly recommend for those of you enchanted by the history of fashion. See fashion houses Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé and Louis Vuitton up close and personal, plus discover two more museums that regularly hold fashion exhibits. And as an added luxury, because fashion is all about treating yourself, I've included my favourite cafés and restaurants nearby.
No. 1 ~ Musée Yves Saint Laurent
5 Avenue Marceau, 16ème arrondissement
Open 11h - 18h, Tuesday to Sunday Closed Monday www.museeyslparis.com 
Press Day at Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Get your fashion fix
Known as one of greatest couturiers in the history of fashion, Yves Saint Laurent’s career is presented in a series of thematic rooms, each showcasing a different aspect of his signature style. Housed in the original couture house where Saint Laurent worked, a visit includes a peek into the designer’s atelier and personal workspace. Don't miss A short, sentimental video narrated by Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s life partner and veritable rock, is a touching testament to the couple’s enduring respect and love for one another. Bring a tissue. Just around the corner Chez Francis is a corner cafe overlooking Place de l’Alma where you can sip a citronnade on their charming terrace and imbibe an unobstructed view of the Eiffel Tower. No. 2 ~ Musée Galliera
10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16ème arrondissement
Only open during temporary exhibits (*See note on CHANEL below) Visit website for opening hours palaisgalliera.paris.fr 
The palatial beauty of Musée Galliera
Get your fashion fix
Officially known as the Musée de la mode de la ville de Paris, the museum takes its name from the Palais Galliera in which it is housed. Curated by rock star fashion historian Olivier Saillard, the Musée Galliera showcases first class exhibits framed within the soaring domed ceilings of the former palace. Over the years I’ve enjoyed retrospectives on Azzedine Alaïa and Jeanne Lanvin, as well as “Anatomy of a Collection,” an exhibit that explored the idea of fashion as living relics of the people who wore them. For example, a bustier of Marie-Antoinette, a redingote of Napoleon, etc. Currently (March 3 to July 15, 2018), visitors can view two decades of collections by Martin Margiela from Spring & Summer 1989 to Spring & Summer 2009. (I'm going this week!) Don't miss Mark your calendars. In late 2019, CHANEL* will open a permanent museum dedicated to Gabrielle Coco Chanel in the basement of the Musée Galliera. Just around the corner The museum’s gardens are beautifully manicured. This renaissance-inspired park that hugs the back of the property is often open to the public and many local office workers take advantage of this space for a sunny lunch break. Just across the street, a simple but quality cafe serves hot and cold drinks and quick eats inside Palais de Tokyo.
No. 3 ~ Musée des arts décoratifs
107 rue de Rivoli, 1er arrondissement
The museum doesn’t have a permanent fashion exhibit, but the temporary ones are semi-regular and always a must. Check their calendar - and see below* madparis.fr 
Entrance of Tenue Correcte Exigée ("Proper Dress Code Required") at Musée des arts décoratifs, 2017
Get your fashion fix
Sometimes directed by curator Denis Bruna (who was also my teacher at École du Louvre where I did a specialization in fashion), the fashion exhibits at Musée des arts décoratifs are always epic in scale and inspiration. The last one, Christian Dior, Couturier de rêve, was grandiose, visually thrilling and historically fascinating. Before that, Tenue Correcte Exigée : Quand le vêtement fait scandale ("Proper Dress Code Required: When clothes are scandalous") made me look at the history of fashion from a new perspective (this and "The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined," curated by Judith Clark at London's The Barbican Art Gallery last year). And before that Fashion Forward, 3 siècles de mode ("3 centuries of fashion"), was an intimate journey into the trends, social customs and wardrobes of the past. Don't miss *Coming March 22 to September 2, 2018, is the exhibit Margiela, les années Hermès. It will be curated by MAD's Chief Curator Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière. Artistic direction will be by Martin Margiela himself. Just around the corner Inside the museum is Loulou, a charming French restaurant with a splendid terrace in season, which sits amidst the Tuileries Garden. Or treat yourself to a hot chocolate at Angelina's, a famous former haunt of Coco Chanel, just down the street at 226, rue de Rivoli. No. 4 ~ La maison Chloé
42 rue de la Baume, 8ème arrondissement
Only open during temporary exhibits. See website for news under "Maison > Exposition" chloe.com 
The entrance at La maison Chloé
Get your fashion fix
Chloé has always been a fashion label associated with the free spirited French girl. Last July, 2017, the Maison opened a public space to house temporary exhibits in a stunning Haussmannien building. The first (and only one so far) was entitled "Femininities." It showcased photographer Guy Bourdin who worked very closely with Chloé, thus, giving them wonderful exposure in top fashion magazines. There is also a small permanent section that walks visitors through Chloé's history from the time founder Gabrielle Aghion (née Hanoka) moved to Paris from Alexandria, Egypt, with her husband in 1945, to the label's collaboration with several designers, including Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney. Entrance is free, but possible only during temporary exhibits. Appointments must be made in advance on-line. Don't miss The wall of Chloé handbags is a walk down memory lane. Just around the corner I cannot express enough my love for Cojean, a chain that offers healthy light meals and snacks. The closest one to Maison Chloé is at 64 rue des Mathurins. No. 5 ~ Maison Louis Vuitton à Asnières
Rue Louis Vuitton, Asnières-sur-Seine (about a 30 min. drive from central Paris)
Rare opening: every weekend from March 17 to April 15, 2018 fr.louisvuitton.com 
The original home of the Louis Vuitton family in Asnières
Get your fashion fix
Tour the original atelier where Louis Vuitton trunks and special orders are still crafted today. The property also contains the Vuitton's family home (which is closed to the public, but you can see the exterior) and the "Galerie d'Asnières" a newly opened mini-museum. You can read more about it in my article "Maison Louis Vuitton. Full Steam Ahead" for NUVO magazine. Don't miss Tickets are seldom available, as they only give tours on select weekends throughout the year. So, you might want to take advantage now of the March and April 2018 visits. You can register on-line here. Just around the corner I admit that when I went to Maison Louis Vuitton, it was taxi there/taxi back, so I have no idea where to have a coffee or enjoy a lunch in Asnières. I did, however, ask my taxi driver to stop by Château Asnières, which is an 11-minute walk if you choose to go by foot. Any 18th-century history lover will not regret it, but opening hours are weird, so check ahead. Also, totally unrelated, but if you love your pet animal as much as I do, a visit to the Dog Cemetery may be worth your while. It's about a 20-minute walk from Maison LV. After the Maison Louis Vuitton, I'd say it's the cat's meow of Asnières. < Previous Post
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2 Comments
5/2/2019 23:45:25
I am bringing my 10-year-old granddaughter to Paris in June. She loves fashion and I was hoping You could suggest a fashion museum that would be most appropriate. Thank you so much! 6/2/2019 02:04:00
Hello! What a great trip for a grandmother and her granddaughter! What a lucky young girl. Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
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